80 years ago, a young man hailing from the culturally rich and busy streets of Shehr –e-Khaas observed an artisan of Copperware deeply absorbed in his work. That day, what sounded to most people like the noise of metal contributing to the hustle n bustle of the city, began to sound like a beautiful melody to his ears and the process of engravings enthralled him. It was this moment, this eye for craft that would change the life of Mohiudin Baghdadi forever as he decided to put his heart into an art form which intrigued and moved him beyond words. Skilled and dedicated he was, and in a short span of time he could conjure masterpieces out of the metal – vessels, samovars, vases, flasks and more. He would sit in his match box sized workshop for hours and worked till he achieved the apex of his skill. He was in love with his work. Its beats became an integral part of his life. His unmatched passion soon earned him name and fame and much repute which stands even till date.
Mohiudin soon saw the spark of passion in the eyes of his sons, Mehraj-ud-din and Ali Mohammed Baghdadi – the same spark that led him to the pinnacle of glory in the art form of Copperware. He identified the passion and began teaching his sons the intricacies of molding and engraving and the secrets of the craft which only a master artisan can narrate after years of practicing. The little boys had a knack for learning. They would observe their father for hours at a stretch, working meticulously on a new samovar or imagining new patterns and motifs which they would later carve onto the metal. The little boys would practice what they learnt from their father and try to achieve the perfection of their work. The two boys grew up to be skilled and renowned artisans and unfolded a chapter full of glory in the years to come.
Mehraj Din Baghdadi is now a graceful old man. Humble and experienced, he has a lifetime of stories and narratives to share while he speaks to us. He is reminded of his childhood when he used to be fascinated with the magic his father cast upon plain sheets of Copper. The highs and lows which he has seen in his life are numerous. He has come across people who have been mesmerized by the craft and those who have ridiculed it, people who have left the craft and people who have strived for it. His childhood confidant, his elder brother, is now 75 years of age. The two brothers have left no stone unturned in reaching the pinnacle which their father aimed at. For them, the memories of their father are sacrosanct and so are the pieces of craft which he made with their own hands. However, the fact that his counterparts have left the craft saddens Mehraj Sahab. “10 years back, this street was lined with 17 Copper Karkhanas, each a home for around 20 artisans. Out of them, only 5 remain today. There is an acute dearth of artisans. A Karkhana, which used to be brimming with creative craftsmen now only has 3 people who work occasionally within its walls,” he says.
When asked why the people who left the craft did so, he pauses, listening to the distant thumping of a hammer against the metal of Traam or Copper and then goes on to elucidate. According to him there were several factors which cascaded and led to the downfall of the craft – among them the major one being the lack of education among the artisans. In the olden times, the artisans used to be barely literate and hence could not adapt with the modern means of marketing and technology. With their products not reaching out to the customers and hence selling enough, the community struggled for survival. The craftsmen who did not find sufficient wages, eventually left the craft. Another factor was the introduction of machinery in crafts. When machines replaced the original craftsmen, the latter had no alternative than to give up. Mehraj Sahab believes that no matter how cheap machine made stuff it, the charm which a hand engraved piece of copper exudes is non pareil and longer lasting. Not focusing on the negativity, Mehraj Sahab has a lot of hope from the next generation. His sons are following his league and keeping the legacy of their grandfather alive. They are more aware of technology and the new means of selling. Modernity is their mantra and yet they steadfastly hold on to the rope of handmade, which gives them an edge over the others. They develop new product lines, get their products designed by practiced designers, participate in workshops and exhibitions and strive hard to further glorify the Baghdadi name, which has become a brand in itself.
Today, Baghdadi is a name which hosts 15+ Karkhanas under their umbrella, each employing 3 artisans on an average. These range from molders who hammer the copper sheets over a wooden anvil to carvers who breathe a new life into those plain pieces. Mehraj Sahab and his group of artisans specialize in various traditional designs like the Chinar, the paisley, the Shawltarash and the Aabshar. Their range of products include antique and modern specimens of Copperware, all handcrafted with utmost precision and love.
As we bid farewell, we are humbled to have heard from the most skilled craftsmen of Kashmiri Copper.
Source: https://www.kashmirbox.com/blog/artisans-of-kashmir-the-blog/in-the-legacy-of-mohiudin-baghdadi
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